Day 38 – Allagash Village, ME, to FORT KENT, ME!

T-2016-9-26

Start: Allagash Village

End: FORT KENT!!!

On the Way: Allagash Village, St. John River, St. Francis, Ft. Kent

Miles: 27.  Milepost: 740!

Weather:  Cold and rainy

Map: 13

I’M HERE!!!

Eastern Terminus, yeah!  Photo by some poor, confused teenager hanging out in the park whom I cornered and asked for a picture.

I came, saw, conquered, and showered!  I figured what the hey, a good day count was something to aim for, and blazed through the last 27 miles into Fort Kent.  I’m here now, having arrived at ~1730 on a Tuesday evening, and looked at the Blockhouse campsites, and promptly trooped down Main Street to the Northern Door Inn—the historic start of US Route 1.  It’s not that the Blockhouse sites are bad, since they’re well-maintained by the local Boy Scouts and rife with historical import (Mainers holes up there in a bloodless standoff with French forces across the Canadian border in the 1800s).  But they’re relatively exposed in the most urban locale I’ve yet to visit in Maine.  And I wanted a shower, dammit, and to wake up without my clothes covered in a layer of frost.  If I hang out here for four nights (until my folks arrive on Saturday), it’ll feel rather extravagant, but hey, it’s my one major extravagance of the trip.

And not going to lie, it’s nice here.  The snowmobilers’ lodge is cozy, the beds are nice, and there’s even wifi.  And laundry.  I’m off to do a load now.  And tomorrow I’ll explore the town!

I’m a little ahead of schedule, but the nights were getting pretty cold and miserable, and the morning meant jamming my numb limbs into near-frozen river clothes.  It was fun, but my body was ready, after 37 nights of camping outside, to relax a bit.  Plus my shoulder issues need some attention, now that I’m not working that joint for 10 hours a day…

Also, I was given some beta by a local in Allagash that, thankfully, ended up not to be true.  When I mentioned going down the St. John to Fort Kent, her face got dark and she gravely said “There’s no water in that river…”  I thought that must mean lots more side-of-the-road toting and the final test for my trusty wheels, but instead it was one of the deepest and widest and most pleasant rivers I’ve been on so far.  There were a couple rapids that were low enough to command some navigational attention—I can only imagine how much fun those must be in high water.  I can see how this is a famous canoe trip-slash-muskie fishing destination.  After all this time, I finally feel like I can say I can jam along and enjoy myself and read the river on the go, which is hopefully a lasting skill that will prove useful down the line.

Next adventure!  AKA, pizza and craft beer!

Things Learned: 

+ Small-town, friendly hotels like this one are pretty reasonable and accommodating.  This one’s as nice as any chain establishment I’ve been to, and the first one I’ve ever stayed in alone.

+ After going so long without desserts, I’m pretty sensitive to sugar.  My celebratory Ben and Jerry’s and local beer kept me up until 0200.  But Young Frankenstein was on, so all was well.

Trail Magic:

+ St. Francis served as a great small stopover town before Fort Kent.  It popped up just when I needed a break and a snack.

+ I can’t wait to explore this exquisite little town in the morning!