Day 36 – Allagash River, ME

U-2016-9-25

Start: Sweeney Brook Campsite

End: Allagash Falls Campsite

On the Way:  Allagash Wilderness Waterway, Allagash Falls

Miles: 27.5.  Milepost: 700!  Only 40 mi to Ft. Kent!

Weather:  The weirdest day of weather I’ve had so far on the Trail.  Started out cloudy, then clear, then super-windy on the deadwaters (just my luck), then sunshowers that were so light and cold that I thought they might be snow.  The showers continued on to evening, and now the skies are all clear and poised to give us a proper frigid night.  But the clear skies do let us see the stars, which are lovely out here on the wilderness reserve…

Map: 13

The weirdest day of weather I’ve had so far on the Trail.  Started out cloudy, then clear, then super windy on the deadwaters (but in the opposite direction, just my luck…), then sun-showers that were so light and cold that I thought they might be snow.  The showers continued on to evening, and now the skies are all clear and waiting to give us a properly frigid night.  But the stars be lovely out here on the Allagash reserve…

It has officially reached autumn temperatures, as I saw on the ranger’s weather report when I checked out at Michaud Farm this afternoon.  Today’s high was 54 Fahrenheit!  And yesterday’s was around the same!  No wonder I was so freezy-cold in the morning.  I learned some tricks for today and the future, though.  Gloves are a big plus: fleece in camp, and neoprene on the water.  A puff and long sleeve under the waterproof jacket is a must.  Winter hat and buff scarf at all times.  Nalgene of hot water to cuddle at night.  Fire to keep toasty and dry clothes in the evening.  I’m gonna experiment with using my space blanket e-bivvy in the hammock tonight.  Basically, it’s getting uncomfortably cold to camp (well, without an underquilt), and I’m glad we’re reaching the end.

Also to cold to go splashing in the river if I run up on some dadgunned sandbar, especially in the morning before the sun’s risen.  The Allagash has been featuring lots of gravel bars, which make me grumble, firstly at getting out of the boat and into the freezing drink, and secondly to undo the skirt that’s keeping my legs toasty.  More of that coming tomorrow.  At this rate, it’s looking like I’ll be into Allagash Village tomorrow, camp about 6 mi on the other side of town, then cruise on in for the last 21 mi into Fort Kent, maybe stopping for some convenience store fun in St. John or St. Francis—little towns on the way along the St. John River.  

In any case, I’ll be into Fort Kent for Tuesday night, with a ride coming on Friday at the earliest.  I was entertaining notions today of really stretching out my river time, since there’s really not that much to do in Fort Kent.  But I’ll have a library and a hotel room for at least a day or two.  Maybe I’ll spend one night camping at the Blockhouse, where the Boy Scouts maintain some sites next to the river, but again, it’ll be chilly…  I’m quite good at being creative about occupying myself: money is the only real X-factor involved.

Lots of things I’m looking forward to in Ft. Kent: exploring town, doing laundry, buying a big cheesy pizza and beer and watching a mindless movie with some ice cream, showering, finishing my books, checking in at home, stretching out my shoulder, and generally relaxing!

One sign you want to listen to... Via Canoe Tales .

Things Learned: 

+ Layering and de-layering: Simple lessons that should not be forgotten simply because there’s no snow about.

+ My imitation Buff (scrapped together from an old merino pullover) works really well!  I’m pleased with it.

+ Wet neoprene will freeze on frosty mornings.  Point of interest.

+ Along those lines, I’m not usually what we’d call a morning-compatible individual, but mornings at this time of year are soooo unpleasant.  No need to rush things.

Trail Magic: 

+ My sitemates from last night made up for their snores by sharing a sumptuous breakfast of bacon, onions and eggs, and real coffee with me!  Protein to keep me going all day—great stuff.

+ I had the good luck to run into the M. Farms ranger, who was on one of his off days but stopping by the office to grab something.  Poor guy: just a couple days ago, a kayaker was dumb enough to go over the 40-foot Allagash Falls, and get pretty Alla-gashed up as a result.  The ranger said he had been to see him in the hospital, where he gotten all patched up.  What an ordeal to go through as a ranger, though…I told him about the Trail, and he told me congrats in advance.

+ Saw a cow moose!  Watched her through the binos as she fed at the edge of the pond.