Monday, January 9, 2017

Day 21 – West Milan, NH, to Mollidgwock State Park, NH

S-2016-9-10 

Start: Cordwell Campsite
End: Mollidgwock St. Park, Osprey remote site.
On the Way:  Upper Ammonoosuc River, West Milan, Androscoggin River, Pontook Reservoir
Miles: 16.6.  Milestone 374.5.  HALFWAY!
Map: 7

A map of Mollidgewock State Park (which I've been mispelling this whole time).  From http://www.mappery.com/Mollidgewock-State-Park-map
Well, I goofed.  I read the map and the guidebook to understand that “Osprey” site, with the same naming scheme and labelling protocol as every other site on the map, was one of these glorious free first-come, first-served NFCT primitive sites, like those I’ve been enjoying ever since Old Forge.  Instead, I found out it was a remote site of Molliwodge State Park, a couple miles up the Andro, and it was already booked.  I intruded on a very nice older couple with their 25’ glamping trailer.  It was getting dark and the Andro was rushing—enough so that the only way to proceed upstream was to carefully line along the shore—but they very graciously agreed to let me pitch my hammock off to the side of the spacious site.  Things were made less awkward because they had several friends over to sit around the fire, play loud classic rock (no objections), and drink the husband’s homemade dessert wine.  They offered me a glass (real glass!).  It was pretty good: plenty sweet and nice and clear, which is always hard to do with homebrews.  This was sangria, but apple wine is apparently also one of his specialties.  Good use of a crop that most people seem to let rot on the tree around here.

This bunch only lives 14 miles down the road from here, yet still brings this monstrous camper out to sit in another patch of woods around another fire ring every now and again.  Goes to show the strong grasp of camp culture around here.  They were very cheery retired folks—can’t be doing too bad for themselves with this camping rig.  They commented on the abnormally high number of spiders around, which I’d also noticed.  They also tried to declare that anthropomorphic climate change wasn’t happening.  I played the good guest and politely ended the conversation, rather than whipping out my mentally-prepared set of data to the contrary.

Pontook Reservoir, where I'd love to launch a (downstream) journey on the Androscoggin in the future!
This morning I finally got off the Upper Ammo in Groveton (with a great convenience store with great Whoopie pies), did a ~4mi portage to the Androscoggin, only to find that this weekend is one of the last where they’re letting the dam out full-tilt for whitewater paddlers.  Took one look at the raging current below the dam, decided my strength was better used elsewhere, and portaged the rest of the 1.5 miles up to the Pontook Resevoir.  Most of the Androscoggin was nice, glassy and slow-moving and wide, littered with pulp logs under-hull from the days of driving all the virgin timber downriver.  (The last log drive here was quite late, in 1964!)  Some of the sections have some really wicked current, though, which required some careful lining.  Hence my desperation to stop here at Osprey: lining becomes kind of dangerous in anything except full light.

Here’s to lots more lining tomorrow, hopefully right out of NH and the end of this map!

Things Learned:

+ Gord’s general store (the start of the Upper Ammo/Andro portage) carried some topical muscle relaxant that I’ve taken to calling “boyfriend cream” in my mind.  As in, it replaces one of the chief reasons for toting a boyfriend along, which is restorative backrubs.  I can’t wait to try it out, although I hope it’s not scented enough to draw the bugs.

Trail Magic: 

+ Thought I had lost my camp shoes, but they were just crammed way back in the stern.  Would have been sad times—manageable, but sad.

+ Saw 2 weasel-like critters—maybe mink—crossing the road during the portage.

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