Day 11 – East Highgate, VT, to Enosburg Falls, VT

W-2016-8-31

Start: Stealth site just beyond East Highgate, VT

End: Lawyer’s Landing in Enosburg Falls, VT

On the Way:  Missisquoi River, Enosburg

Miles: ~20 (Milepost: 211.5)

Map: 4

Weather: Remember how I said rain was threatening overnight?  Well, it woke me up and will put me to sleep.  I did ask for rain…  Repeatedly…

In Enosburg, near the end of Map 4 and my first segment of Vermont paddling.

I be there.

I was so zonked last night, sleeping in the open on a mid-river rock, such that I didn’t wake up until the rainstorm has soaked through my sleeping bag.  By that point, it was almost dawn, so I thought I’d just pack up and get underway.  It sprinkled throughout the day while I fought my upstream battles with the Missiquoi whitewater and flatwater.  That was fine: I was already wet, and the more rain we get now, the less scratchy the next couple of days’ paddling will be (my eternal, placating mantra).  But then, I very stupidly went for a town break when I finally got to Enosburg Falls, leaving my sleeping bag to “air out” on a fence post at the put-in.  It was still a bit damp, since I had gotten most of the morning rainwater to evaporate out by lashing the open bag atop the kayak during a nice four-mile portage (along a rail trail past some bony rapids, which was the most deluxe portage route I’ve had to far—and with more trail-side apples!). 

The Enosburg Falls Bridge of Lights and Flowers.  Essentially, an old sand-filled bridge (which was some cool engineering) turned into a garden/sitting area.

Paddling up that last bit of dam run-off was fun...

All drying efforts were in vain, it turns out: while I was in the Enosburg library, doing my thang and checking email, the downpour began.  I waited out the worst of it, then trudged dejectedly back to the “campsite.”  (While I appreciate the NFCT’s efforts to give us something—anything—as far as camping space goes, “Lawyer’s Landing” lies as much as its namesake, and is not so much a campsite as a buggy, mown lot with bad drainage.)  I waited under the bridge next to the dam like a troll, not brave enough to sit on the moldy futon the local kids had stashed there for their canoodling, contemplating spending the night under there and wondering if I would encounter the owner of the bottles and ratty blankets if I did. 

The new bridge that replaced the Bridge of Lights and Flowers...and kept me somewhat dry during that afternoon's downpour.

When the rain let up, it was half-an-hour to sunset, so my original plan of dashing down the river to find a comfier field to sleep in was shot.  I set up my sad little tarp on the only feasible uprights around—a corner of a split-rail fence—and put my groundcover and soaked sleeping bag underneath it.  Then Teton showed up, having survived the lightning on the water!  He also called it a day, but could opt for higher ground in his free-standing tent.

I ventured into town to try and dry the bag at the laundromat, but once again, the laundry gods thwarted my plans.  It was closed.  At 1730.  Gotta love these small towns.  In consolation I bought dinner at literally the only place still open, since even the pub had shut down at 1900: a greasy Chinese takeout diner. 

Things Learned:

+ Greasy Chinese food tastes great in crises.  And that deep-fried egg concoction will be the only fuel keeping me warm in my soaked bag tonight.

+ If there’s ONE item of gear to keep dry, it’s your sleeping bag, with camp clothes inside.  Period.  I feel like a moron for compromising that one rule of camping survival.  It’s not cold enough for this mistake to be dangerous, but damn is it uncomfortable.

Trail Magic:

+ More tasty apples along the rail trail, and my portage drying service kind of worked  A method to keep in mind for the future.

+ This campsite’s kind of sketch.  I’d be less afraid if we didn’t have a farm with an angry, loud dog on one side and a bridge overhang with obvious signs of regular occupants on the other, all cordoned off by a fairly busy country highway.  Tomorrow I escape river-ward, the only direction left to go.

+ On to Map 5!