W-2016-8-24
– Day 4
Start:
Raquette Falls Lean-to, near Mother Jones homesite
End:
Second Pond Lean-to, right before Oseetah Lake
On the Way: Upper, Middle, and Lower Saranac Lakes, Raquette River
On the Way: Upper, Middle, and Lower Saranac Lakes, Raquette River
Map: 2
Miles: 21
(Milepost: ~80)
Weather: All
clear! Warm!
Forget bears: fear the rodents. |
Last night I learned the hard way that rodents should be
more feared than bears when it comes to food drybags. Even though I hung the bag from a tree at a
bear-blockable height, I guess it wasn’t far enough away from the trunk to foil
a chipmunk. Little bastard chewed
through my biggest, most deluxe bag, then didn’t even have the decency to eat
something while he was there. I have all
my food in ziplocs, so no worries about waterproofing, but I hope the structure
of the bag holds up: it’s the only one with comfy back-straps for portaging.
Lots of little rivers today, which were cute until they got really windy. Dieter das Boot doesn’t have what we’d call a small turn radius. Only two carries, though, which were both tricky but do-able with the wheels. Then onto the Saranac Lakes, with the wind at my back and pretty courteous motorboats, as far as motorboats go. I’m camping along the Saranac River now—a turgid, blighted little section, which I hope changes soon. My first big town tomorrow, hopefully with a library stop for some Internet!
Manually-operated Upper Locks on Upper Saranac Lake. The Lockmaster let me through--didn't even have to tie up the boat, but I did have to back-paddle against the flush effect a bit. |
Closed lock. |
Lock directions, which I would had to do by myself if the Lockmaster hadn't been nearby. |
My wish of having a palatial lean-to to myself finally came
true! Gear spread out to dry, bed
sprawled, and dinner made in comfort with a roof overhead and a solid pine
plank floor under-bum. And food is
safely in the boat, which is serving as a very expensive bear canister. Two gents out on a day trip away from the
respective missus-es are also here tenting: they were fun to talk to as they
drank whiskey, smoked cigars, friend sirloin over a Sterno can, and generally
had themselves a stag weekend. One was
an ex-machinist, so we extolled the mechanics of kayak and canoe carts for a
bit.
My first Lean-to stay! |
Things
Learned:
+ My ~45 minute, ~noon lunch break is a great time to stop
somewhere sunny, kick off the river shoes, and spread out gear to dry a
bit. Today’s break was at Upper Saranac
Lake, and was exquisitely refreshing.
Lunch at the First Saranac Lake |
+ I like to pretend to be unflappable and take very little
offense at the opinions of others, but little comments can certainly irk, even
if they don’t penetrate my calm. Some
jackass walking with his wife and dog asked me if the haul would be “worth it”
at the start of the Indian Carry, which turned out to be pretty bumpy and
rough. C’mon, dude. What the hell kind of cute question is
that? What am I going to do if it’s not
“worth it”? Sit on the trail and pout
for the next couple weeks? Hot damn.
+ Thin blue lines on the map that look like connections
between bodies of water are not to be trusted.
Thick blue lines, sure. But in
this drought, thin blue lines, not so much.
Trail
Magic:
+ Made no wrong turns along Stoney Creek, which was my first
labyrinthine marsh portion of the Trail!
Chapel Island on the first Saranac Lake. |
The Chapel had a boat service running through the summer. In the olden days, they'd fire a cannon over the water to tell the lake residents it was time for Mass. |
+ Met NFCT officials building a bridge on Indian Carry! They took a picture, as I was the first
Through-paddler to cross it. One was one
of the 3 bigwig, full-time employees, and he asked if I had any Trail
questions. If I had been told the night
before that I’d be brushing with such celebrity, I’d have brainstormed
some—instead I just thanked them for their work. Must remember to look these folks, and the
photo, up.
+ One of the NFCT volunteers quipped that one of her family had asked to canoe Long Lake this summer, to which her response was "Long Lake, Short Summer." The remark made me feel validated in my Long-Lake-directed ire.
+ Tomorrow, onto the SARANAC!
+ Tomorrow, onto the SARANAC!
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